The first Hanukkah I spent in Chile, I searched for the most dense potatoes I could find, brought them home, grated, strained, and seasoned them, formed them into patties, and fried them. I then invited a bunch of Chilean friends over to light the menorah and eat my family favorite, potato latkes. These are the potato pancakes of my youth, potatoes grated by grandmothers, mothers, and daughters, and fried by the acting matriarch, drained on paper towels and served with sour cream and applesauce. When I proudly presented the crispy latkes, my friends responded, “Oh… they’re like Jewish milcaos!”

Milcaos are fried potato patties, from the potato-rich area of Chiloé, a large island about two-thirds of the way down Chile’s coast, which has a gastronomy all its own. There are many different varieties of potatoes grown on the island, many of which we would identify as fingerlings or blue potatoes, but whose names here are clavela lisa and michuñe negra. In fact, there are over a hundred potato species native to Chiloé and they are an important part of the daily diet on the island, in many forms, from mashed potatoes to potato salad, chapaleles (another kind of potato pancake), the stick-roasted chochoca “bread,” and of course, milcaos.

Milcaos can be served instead of bread to accompany any meal or as a simple snack. They also comprise an important part of a curanto, the dish with which Chiloé is most closely identified. Curanto is a kind of clambake made in a hole, wrapped in giant leaves, and cooked over hot coals. It can also be made in a pot, where it is called pulmay or curanto en olla.

Milcaos can be steamed, fried, or pan-fried and then baked. Traditionally these have ground cooked sausage in them, but to make them Hanukkah (and vegetarian) friendly, I’ve replaced the sausage with carmelized onions for a Chilean-Eastern European fusion treat. Serve them with a fresh tomato salsa made with cilantro for a slightly more traditional option or try them with sour cream to play up the fusion angle. 

Hanukkah Milcao 

  • 4 pounds potatoes
  • 3/4 teaspoon salt
  • 2 tablespoons butter
  • 3 cups thinly sliced onions
  • 6 tablespoons olive oil

Get the full recipe.